The bohemian and cozy Sternschanze or Schanzenviertel as it also is called, is one of my favourite parts of Hamburg. I discovered it last year, when I visited Hamburg too many times to count, and it was love at first sight.
Unfortunately my camera ran out of battery every single time I went to Sternschanze. Go figure. So I don’t have many pics to share, but here’s some of them. Some I snapped with my cellphone, hence the bad quality.
I feel that so many first time (or second or third time) visitors to Hamburg miss out on this area, cause hardly any city guides or tourists books do any coverage of it. It’s the smallest area of Hamburg and is squeezed in between Altona-Nord, St Pauli, Eimsbuttel-Harvesthude and Rotherbaum.
Lining the streets throughout this neighbourhood are cozy cafés, bars and pubs, beer gardens and restaurants, which are almost all suitable for a low budget wallet. Many also have quite a nice terrace vibe and culture.
Here you find a good selection of food culture from all around the world; Indian, Portugese, Turkish, Japanese, Irish, French, Spanish, Italian, Morroccan, and German of course. And some restaurant and cafés also have an ecological/biodynamic profile, which makes it even better.
Lots of students as well as bohemian artists and other creatives live in the area which probably help to explain why the prices here are a bit lower than the rest of the city.
Getting there is easy. Just take the U-bahn U3 or the S-bahn S21 or S3 and jump off at Sternschanze. Or just walk. It’s walking distance from the gigantic Messe area, Marktstrasse/Karolinenviertel and Planten un Blomen. it takes about 20-30 minutes to walk to Jungfernstieg.
There’s plenty of shopping to do here. You won’t find any of the big retailers here, but you will find plenty of alternative and edgy stores, second hand and vintage as well as new stuff.
Below is a pretty typical store window.
Altes und Neue
Altes & Neue is a lovely shop with vintage and new stuff; jewellery, small items for interior decoration; doorknobs, candlelight holders, lamps, clocks, jewellery stands, that kind of stuff.
Another cozy store.
One of several stores for vinyl and second hand records, LPs, singles and CDs.
FOOD & DRINKS
Kumpir is a Turkish baked potatoes resturant, perfect for a quick bite to eat. A huge baked potato so stuffed with all kinds of ingredients that you can’t even see the potato beaneath costs about EUR 3,60. You will get full, I promise. They have a huge selection of various fillings. Pick a combination from their menus or combine after your own taste and desire. I love Kumpuir so much that last time I was in Hamburg I visited it three times in two days.
Location: Schanzenstrasse. There’s also also another Kumpir at Mogenstrasse.
Frank und Frei
After visiting Kumpir take a walk a few metres to the right and enjoy a beer, a drink or a coffe at Frank und Frei. They also serve food. Sit outdoors or indoors. Cozy pub atmosphere indoors (looks like a typical pub with dark wood interiors and lots of framed pictures on the walls. Very nice and friendly bartender and staff.
Location: Corner Schanzestrasse and Suzannestrasse.
Cheap drinks and a huge selection of random sofas. Sofa bar certainly live up to its name. Here it’s all about the sofas. A favourite among locals and with a laid back atmosphere and cheap drinks it’s not hard to understand why. Good relaxed crowd.
There’s a few one or two star hostels in the area, and then there’s the fancy and cool 4,5 star Mövenpick Hotel, which is housed in the old (and heritage protected) watertower in the Sternschanze Park. The watertower got carefully and beautifully renovated into a hotel 2003 after being abandoned and empty for 45 years.
Right in the middle of the Schanzenviertel is also the Rote Flora, the most curious corner of Hamburg, but I will cover that in a separate entry.
All pics belong to Kuriosa Randoma, except for the Mövenpick hotel pictures which belongs to the hotel.